Christian Cowan’s Spring/Summer 2025 collection took to the BLADE EAST tarmac in New York City, set against the striking backdrop of the East River and Queens skyline. In the words of Cowan himself, the show was "Fearsome; a little bit spooky, and a little bit getting the fuck out of there."
The show was exuding it-girl energy as models walked out onto the tarmac one by one to upbeat music including Charli XCX's hit song "Apple." When asked if the OG it-girl energy was intentional, Cowan said, "No one knows this, but I've been an OG New York it-girl since I was a child. I feel that way in my soul, and so I brought that energy out with the models. I wanted them to feel like the downtown cool girl."
The collection featured a palette dominated by silver, black, and cobalt blue, a new addition to Cowan’s typically vibrant color scheme. Returning to the runway were the designer’s signature elements: star motifs, ostrich plumes, and bold, statement-making silhouettes.
This season, Cowan also showcased refined tailoring, an evolution of the sharp designs previewed at the 2024 MET Gala. His layered tailoring featured both men’s and women’s looks, adorned with metal roses that served as closures, adding a dramatic touch. Cowan’s exploration of turning underwear into outerwear was demonstrated with some looks literally featuring lingerie lying on top of vinyl, creating an enticing contrast.
Speaking about the inspiration behind the collection, Cowan painted a dramatic and vivid picture, saying, "Spluttering interrupts Wagner’s 'Tristan und Isolde: Overture,' everyone turns abruptly, only to see Clarice falling to her side, clutching her Verdura Stardust necklace with one hand, the other leaning against the golden De Gournay wallpaper. She stares with an unsettling horror at her martini, which she had thought to herself had tasted strange, as the chilling thought dawned upon her, 'It was poisoned!' Her ankles give way, her lashes flutter, letting out a cry she grabs what’s nearest, pulling the tablecloth Mercedes got at Bergdorf last summer with all its delicious contents onto the polished parquet floor. Hysteria runs wild as the ladies aid Clarice, all the while trying to decipher who could have done this?! They turn to see a flash of a taffeta and fur running out the door. “AFTER HER!” they cry!!! What was promising to be Vienna’s ball of the season now turns into the most glamorously chic hunt for a murderer…"
The show also featured the Smiley Future Positive collaboration, a capsule collection that emphasized optimism and sustainability. DSW provided the footwear for the show, while select jewelry came from Astrid & Miyu.
Celebrity guests included Kristin Chenoweth, Aliyah's Interlude, Laverne Cox, JoJo Siwa, Yung Miami, and more, making the event as star-studded as the collection.
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